I'm pretty sure autozone rents bolt grip sets for $30

how the hell do those things work? I see they can be used to get steering wheels off, but how do they keep the crank from spinning? I know that probably sounds dumb but i've honestly never seen one in action before.

just did the leaky wheel cylinder today, man that was a pain. The brake line broke when i was taking it off, so i had to get a new one of those, and also those springs are pretty tough to get on. But it's on, bled (pretty sure) and now i just need to do the other brake shoe and bleed all of the brakes.

Well i went to bleed the passenger rear brake yesterday and the end of the bleeder just snapped right the hell off. Fortunately being that it was completely stuck, it didnt loosen at all so i can still drive it. I was going to try to get it out and replace the bleeder, but a wheel cylinder is 13 dollars, screw it. I'll put a new one on, especially since i have a hardware kit and shoes for that side anyways.

Godamn Jesse, you're making my mind hurt with all of the snapping and leaking. Burn the bitch and get a Toyota or Ford truck - just change the oil once a year and keep air in the tires.
E.

lol, yeah as it turns out removing things that havent been removed before on a 18 year old car doesnt always turn out well. I'm going to see if the dealer wants to rip me for the passenger brake line or not, i really dont having this side all ghettoed up like the other brake line is. I'll have to take pictures of it sometime, i had to use a piece that was two or three inches longer than it needed to be. So i just cuved the line up and around a little more to clear the strut.

Well we tried to replace the timing belt yesterday, but the accessory pulley bolt wouldnt move, even with an impact. Fuck my life.

I raced on sunday, put the results in the 1/4 thread. I was doing some reading on drag racing with an auto, i was reading a page that said it would help the braking when i'm launching to apply the brakes, shift into neutral, rev it once, and push harder on the brake and put it back into gear. I didnt know about that, i'll have to try that next time.

PS: power steering pump makes a different funny noise than the previous noises it used to make, but i havent heard it since i was at the track, and it still works. I'll just keep using it until it doesnt work to save 30 dollars, unless something terrible could happen otherwise.

the new bisi sales rep posted this http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=141990, it's an f22 destroked making 403hp with a stock block. If i went with one of those sleeeved blocks i could probably make some good power

dont for get that you need new computer harness and intake sensor and hondata and some other odd and ends

for my car at least we dont need harnesses, you can plug basically any obd1 honda ecu into the stock plug. The only time you need to do any rewiring is to add the extra wires for vtec or IAB's. The first thing i planned on buying though was a hondata s300 though and getting a stock tune

thats not bad if you had del sol they come with vtec prewired even if there not vtec

that'd be nice, i think that preludes are like that too.

Little update here, on thursday hopefully i'll be picking up a dual runner intake off of a newer accord, and a better cam. I'll have to do some scrounging to find the little box to run the butterflies in the secondary runners, and i have no idea how i'm going to add the extra wires for that, but i'll figure it out when it gets here. It should give it a bit more power since the engine that those parts comes from had 15 more hp than the a1's, plus i have a better header than the a6's cast manifold. I need to find the ecu too, but if i cant get one for cheap i might just save up and get a hondata s300 when i get exhaust.