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 Post subject: pedal assembly
PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 8:14 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2009 4:08 pm
Posts: 355
I'm slightly confused about exactly what the problem is when there is play in the pedal... I have adjusted to the point where it is barely screwed in and am confused on what exacltly I'm supposed to be taking out... so it's not the master cylinder, slave cylinder but the shaft that holds the pedals right? And I read that you can just weld it??? I'm pretty lost and could use a link to some good pics and procrdure or a guy with some experience doin this I think, lol... let me know if I'm right or whatever :lol: :roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 10:03 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 5:24 pm
Posts: 1066
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Highscores: 2
At the end of the shaft where the arm pushes the master cylinder is where it strips out. That's why people weld it. the shaft end rounds off so then the arm can move by itself.

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-Andrew, AETuning-
1991 Talon TSi AWD (Smoothest Power Curve)
12.9 @ 108.3 Best E.T. (Pump-Norwalk)
13.4 @ 111.1 Best Trap (Pump-Muncie)
2004 Tundra Double Cab 4x4
2006 Eclipse GT V6 6-Spd


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 7:07 pm 
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Elite

Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2009 4:08 pm
Posts: 355
Yea, I searched some more and figured it out... I don't know what I was thinking lol, but I have the one on the donor ready to just drop out so I can see, but now I think I'm just going to weld it...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 5:24 pm
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Location: Fort Wayne, IN
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only thing with welding is it is a one time thing, that bracket will never be able to be used again. check to see if the n/a and turbo ones are different.

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-Andrew, AETuning-
1991 Talon TSi AWD (Smoothest Power Curve)
12.9 @ 108.3 Best E.T. (Pump-Norwalk)
13.4 @ 111.1 Best Trap (Pump-Muncie)
2004 Tundra Double Cab 4x4
2006 Eclipse GT V6 6-Spd


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 2:25 am 
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Elite

Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2009 4:08 pm
Posts: 355
You mean if it breaks? I get it... I just have to finish etting it out... dropped the column and shiz... I would 99% garentee they are the same since I have the 92 dealer service manual and it tells if there is a difference and would have seperate diagrams...

On tuners a few guys said welding is the only permanent fix considering that they continuously go bad... I don't know, I like to do things right, but it was 17 years ago when the car was manufactured so I'm sure theres alot of things that are improvements...

Man, it's 2:30 in the morning and I'm rambling :stupid: lol

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 7:14 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 5:24 pm
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Location: Fort Wayne, IN
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yea, but a new pedal with some nice bushings isn't too expensive. I think Krebs spent like $40 on a new shaft, then like $20 or so for the Buschur brass bushings. Just so thoughts, I welded mine FWD one, need to address my AWD before it becomes a problem.

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-Andrew, AETuning-
1991 Talon TSi AWD (Smoothest Power Curve)
12.9 @ 108.3 Best E.T. (Pump-Norwalk)
13.4 @ 111.1 Best Trap (Pump-Muncie)
2004 Tundra Double Cab 4x4
2006 Eclipse GT V6 6-Spd


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:51 pm 
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Elite

Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2009 4:08 pm
Posts: 355
how did the welded one turn out?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 10:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 5:24 pm
Posts: 1066
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Highscores: 2
It worked. I did that over a year ago, sold the car in august and as far as I know the kid is still driving it.

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-Andrew, AETuning-
1991 Talon TSi AWD (Smoothest Power Curve)
12.9 @ 108.3 Best E.T. (Pump-Norwalk)
13.4 @ 111.1 Best Trap (Pump-Muncie)
2004 Tundra Double Cab 4x4
2006 Eclipse GT V6 6-Spd


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