Almir. Now that you have the flares, you should really look into the 285/30-18's. A little rolling of the rear fender lip into the flares and you could probably tuck those. Small amount of camber and I know the front will tuck.

I been trying to think of a way to cut lines down remove ends put back in to reduce the size. Only not sure how much pressure the rake with make on its own.

Why the push to remove it in teh first place? Is this simply because it's leaking somewhere? If it's leaking at the rack this won't solve anything as it'll still leak. This really only helps if it's leaking at teh pump.

yea it leaks at pump at booth ends pump Looks it has been leaken at connetion to the rack

my last dsm was having powersteering leak problems like a bitch, made that "faint supercharger" sound and it would drain its resevior in like 4 days, but I got rid of it before it became too much of a pain in the ass

good luck Rick.

I was suprised all fluid leaked in to boots of power steering rack and the resivor is dry. It was filled last time I had car on the road. Sounds funny when turn the wheel you hear fluid in the boots squish back and forth.

Yea the seals in the end of the rack body are leaking. Pretty common. Only fix is a new rack, a rebuild is too much work and money for what it is.

Yea i know it was the seals. I would like to get a manual rack. So when I get my rebuild on my engine done. i get to keep all the horse power and torque in stead of giving it way to accessorys that do not help the engine.

Here a good question I have a set of turbo rods and pistons that are standard bore I have a n/a motor with standard bore.

The engine the rods came out of was used to do a 2g to 1g engine swap. The guy wanted eagle rods and higher compression pistons. The rod dont have any scaring or damage.

My true turbo engine is bored .020 over so standard piston will work thats no brianer will not work

So other than n/a's engine doent have oil squirter, cams are diffent is there a good cause not swap rods and pistons to make the engine turbo.

yes i have bunch odd ball parts stocked in my garage

As long as they are from a 6 bolt, I would swap them in with some new bearings and rings and call it good. I wouldn't be overly concerned over the squirters with a 14b.

I'm running my car's original nt block and crank with turbo internals and head swapped in.

Yea wanted to but i they may be out 7 bollt know that looked at some more they have F1 63T. One set I thought was form a one 1g turbo were n/a after scrubbing all gunk off top to read them. I am just leave it as is and run low boost.

I'd be very cautious before cracking that thing open rick. Why don't we put this in then find another good block to swap crap from?

I'll talk again to Andy again and get over to your house soon.

I vote to drop the thing in as-is (maybe with a metal HG and studs) and just enjoy driving your car for a little while. 5 psi is better than broke in your garage.

hey Scotty what all happend to that engine from that blue car?

I can rotate engine bye hand with no problems.
But if I try to have the start the car all the starter can not turn it over. You hear all right actuator pop and then hear starter just humm

I havent got it to turn over once from using the car repulled off the vavle cover all rollers were tight in line and as rotate by hand

I am layed off and home just about all time any want to give a helping hand?

If it turns over smoothly by hand, maybe the problem is not your engine but your starter.