Ok, I searched the tuners forum and have been youtube-ing, googleing, websiting...
the dsmtuners site search brought up little to be desired.
So, I have been watching videos on AmsOil and some other that I've not heard of until tonight called Bitron Oil.
I have always used Mobil 1 with one quart of plain Lucas Oil Stabilizer with a K&N oil filter, and had great results, but after 2,000 miles it was always time to change the oil again as it was broken down and narsty looking.
Also, read on the lucas bottle that it can be used as an assembly lube...? I just liked it because everytime I went into advance auto I liked to play with that display with the 3 gears that grabbed oil instantly with the lucas additive.

These two others (AmsOil is a stand-alone oil whereas Bitron Oil is an additive) showed different results.
The AmsOil with the oil bypass filtration system allowed infrequent changes (something like 25,000 miles?!) and a highly clean constant lubrication that visually beat out the highest competition through a bearing wear test.
However, they also showed this Bitron additive killing AmsOil's lubricant.

My question really is what have you guys observed/tried? Testimonials, trials, whatever.
Also, manual transaxle, transfer case, rear differential.

I have used Royal Purple Max Gear in the Transfer Case and Rear end with good results.

I would also not hesitate to run Redline Lightweight Shockproof for <350ish-hp and Redline
Heavyweight Shockproof for >350ish-hp in both the Transfer case and Rear End but Royal Purple is what was available at the time to me.

Stock is always good too for basic cars when it comes to drive train fluids as well.

As for the manual transmission fluid, it really depends. I tried most every fluid there is, I suggest others do the same to see what works for your specific transmission as some seem to love cheap ass fluid and others won't shift without liquid gold like NEO RHD.

As for Engine oil, I never bought into any of the additives. In fact I never bought into the snake oil special JDM oil either that lasts 20k miles or whatever. I just rock whatever Synthetic is on sale at Walmart usually for the Fit as they are usually the cheapest. Just keep the oil fresh and you will be good is how I look at it. I can do a full Synthetic oil change for <$30 with a Wix Filter even if I buy Mobil but for the Fit I get whatever Synthetic is on sale if any are to save a few bucks. I will likely stick with Mobil1 for the 4G along with a Wix filter. No additives or any BS. Just good clean oil and a good filter. And keep it changed every year or 2,500 miles due to how hard I typically drive a DSM.

AETuning is a prefered customer of AMSOil. Their engine oil is amazing. I first used SynPower, black after 600 miles. Then Mobil 1, Black after 1000 miles. I've got almost 800 miles on this round of AMSOil and it still looks amazing. I also run AMSOil Severe Gear Gear Lube in my trans, makes that stock 100,000 1990 tranny shift like butter under "normal" driving, i.e. less than 10 lbs of boost. 3rd gear gets a little pissed at 7000 at 23 psi lol Anyways, I also use the Severe Gear in my x-case and rear diff with AMSOil Slip-Lock additive for the LSD. I love it. I don't know if I can use anything else now.

I plan on putting AMS Engine Oil in my 100,000+ 04 Tundra and see what it looks like at my regular oil changes.

BTW: the 25,000 mile measurement is only under "normal" driving conditions. Which nobody does, not even Jared. Any stop and go driving and worse (racing) automatically puts you in the "Severe" category if not sooner. Also, don't buy into the "name brand" oil filters. I need to find the link on MR2OC forums, it breaks down oil filters. Like the expensive K&N is just a recolored FRAM filter. A Mobil 1 filter is just a black Purolator. There are some shocking facts about oil filters.

I've always just run Castrol GTX. No synthetic. The oil was always clear on the stick after 3,000 miles and I've never driven my cars easy. I've personally seen it clean out a sludged up motor. I have a friend that is obsessed with the oil in his car. He did a lot of research and said to stay away from Mobil 1. It used to be great, but recently has gotten cheap.

now the filter, I used to put the fram on the talon when I first got it. In the morning I would start it up and hear this, steal on steal sound (like the pistons were polishing the cylinders or something) when it was mid winter. Then I switched to K&N and never went back. I believe this was due to the anti-drainback rubber valve in the filter.
this is the "Bypass filter" from AmsOil: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKBs6KGcgwI
I also noticed that they stock the oil bottle pump for $11, I read something on tuners about the engine build pre-lube with a bottle pump like that.
This is the bearing test they use for bitron and Amsoil: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tf3moijxSvk
hopefully these links work...
And here are the videos about the filters: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAMj2haXfFo

I've always run 15w-50 mobil 1 but I'm considering switching to Royal Purple next year. For the trans I run Walmart brand fluid, it seems to work best.

Hear is my 2 cents since i work with oil every day shop owns a oil change. Mobile one is OK not great but no oil is perfect. After talking to our mobile rep for the oil change if in a high boost situation like can be achived in a dsm mobile can detonate under boost,also any dino oil will also. From what i gathered from all my oil reps is royal purple is the only oil that will not detonate in high compresson or high boost situations and i dont think that either of the reps ive spoke to are lying to sell a product cause neither sell royal purple. Also on that not all oils have sucked since 2004 when they removed Zinc from all oil but desil specific oils. Any time you brake in a motor since 2004 you should run a breakin additive. Or your other option is to run rotella. I know several guys running rotella T in there racing vehicles for this exact reason. As for adatives there are only 2 that I belive in or use one is Lucas is awsome for high milage motors and high rpm motors but rotory. The second is Seafoam it not really a oil additve but can be used as a flush and works great for that and also seen it clean some of the worst looking injectors.

Just my thoughts and what ive been told

I would agree, Ive seen a lot of people using Roleta 15w40 in their race cars now.

Personal opinnion more than anything, but now engine oil is pretty much engine oil. As long as you change your oil on a regular basis you will never have slugging issues. The only real difference is the weight. I have seen engine with sludge with people using synthetic oil that ride out the 10,000 mile oil changes, but frankly they are all morons. Synthetic oil still breaks down too.

With that said I run Napa brand synthetic 5w30 in both my cars, and change it every 3k.

The AWD transmission is loaded with Redline lightweight shock proof and shifts great even when its cold. Then again it has a bad ass transmission in it too.

I use valvoline durablend 5w-30 in my engine and Pennzoil Synchromesh in my transmission. I kind of have the same feeling as Krebs on engine oil. Oil is oil to me. Royal Purple is great oil though. Just change your oil every 3,000 miles and you will be fine.

I couldn't stand synchromesh in my transmission. Too thin, and I think it led to the early demise of a few of those NT trannies I was running.

i am an Amsoil dealor and so was my grandfather before he passed, and we have 2 things that has happened to him that have us sold on Amsoil for life

you talked about the bypass filtration unit. my grandfather was a firm believer in that, he would buy a car brand new put 3k miles on it and then have the dealor install a bypass. with the bypass filter you never have to change the oil you simply change the filters and top off the oil and send in a 1cc sample to be tested there is a 3 micron filter that is to be changed every 12.5k miles and a .5 micron filter to be changed every 25k miles and you test your oil at that time. My grandfather had a 96 grand caravan with the 3.3 liter and a bypass (and all other Amsoil fluids changed Tranny PS ect.) he was in Tx and had the oil pressure idiot light come on at 109k miles (106k on the oil) He had it towed to the dodge dealor in Tx an drop shipped 2 new filters and new oil there and they changed everything and saved the 1cc sample for testing and fired it up and the idiot light still wouldnt go out. Wound up the sending unit failed and the oil was still at 91% with extremly low contamination well within safe limits to continue using as engine oil

you said some oils from Amsoil are good up to 25k mile drain interval. that is true but you do not need the btpass filter the signature series oil when used with the Amsoil Eao filter series have a 25k mile drain interval and Amsoil has a written warrenty that if your engine fails when using Amsoil products and you mechanic says its due to lack of lubercation Amsoil will buy your new engine

now i wouldnt recomend waiting 25k miles on a 350+ hp eclipse but i dont have a problem with something that gets driven more subtley

And i run Amsoil in everything my benz at a 15k mile intervall my brand new Harley at a 5k mile interval and my starrion even my compresor and lawn mower have it in them
i also would be willing to get you guys anything you need at my cost

So a hookup on AMSOIL for board members?

LOL, ok ok, I just wanted to see what people were running/happy with. I just first heard of Amsoil through my mom's boyfriend and he saw the demonstration with the bearing test and was sold, then his son started useing it because he hauls the manufactured trailors to california. But I am a skeptic still, however it does make sense if you have the filters.

more on the tranny, has anybody tried "The Recipe"? I wonder if it would do well with a daily driver...

The only thing that is going to fix a worn out synchronizer ring is replacement. If your looking for something to get the job done, just run Wal-mart brand 80-90. Something a little better or more expensive is Redline MTL (manual transmission lubricant), you could also try the Redline M90 lubricant too.

Yup. ^