This is the new site of Jesse's F22 Honda beast!! Let the keyboards whirrrrrr!!!!!!!1!1!!!1111!

I find putting a T3/T4 turbo on a Honduh insane!! But make sure I'm there the one time you get to floor it before the motor goes pop!!

na it wont blow, i'm probably gonna get some sweet headwork done, and i need to check out some rings/pistons. I'm not sure how stout the stock rods are, i know i can get triple ring pistons and stuff but i need to see if they make ones in lower compression ratios, 10:1 is too high.

Honda build on a DSM forum, cool. I couldn't find any Honda forums on Google. Anybody got a Corvette? Range Rover? Saab Sonnet? RC airplane?

but i can use some dsm parts doesnt that count? The dsm mani/turbo setup looks more tempting every day, seeing as it'll save me about a thousand dollars. I'm pricing it pretty high though, because this is how it ends up

t3/t4 setup-hondata - $1800

I think i can get a p28 with hondata for 600 http://www.hondata.com/s300.html , plus whatever it takes to get it tuned. The dsm setup is far cheaper, the only problem is i'd have to do more fab work, whereas the kit comes with the oil line kits, intercooler, and a bunch of charge piping to cut up and route as you see fit. I'm looking at getting one of these alternator mounts if i go turbo, it'll make the engine bay much neater

The B.S. Forum is anything you want to talk about. I'm a car guy and I love cars, the more the merrier!! It's not cluttering up the forum. If you don't like it don't click this thread.

Don't get me wrong, if Jess goes to the track with us we'll totally destroy his NA f22 ass! But he knows a lot of the guys here and values our knowledge, give him a break. If he hangsout with us long enough he'll get a DSM. - It's inevitable.

I wasn't complaining about the honda talk, I just figured we could move the conversation to a more suitable place...

I would think a T25, 14b or a 16g would be far better on size, and PRICE! Plus isn't the T3/T4 old tech now anyway? Maybe that would make it cheaper.
You could pick up any used stock turbo of a dsm for like $50 in decent shape, get a small brand new IC with pipes off Ebay for 100 to 150 shipped, then you would need a manifold, fuel and management. Sticking with us, we could get you a 1g bov, I guess a $12 boost controller..... hmm what else....

You know, on second thought, we'll find you a nice $1000 Auto 1g and put you in that!

OR!! Gut the SH** out of your F22 and just keep it NA. I mean like Monster Garage gutted. That would be free and way faster! You know, go to the track and swap on some rear donuts to save weight! What do you think?!?!

For every 100lbs lost you'll gain about .1 second in the 1/4 mile. If it were me I'd fix the broken and worn out stuff (brakes, tie rods, wheel bearings, ball joints, bushings) and keep it as a daily. There aren't a ton of hopped up old accords for a reason, but if it's your dream car then by all means go nuts with it.

One of our original members is presently working on an accord in this same style. His name is Craig Berndt, I dont know if he signed up on this board or not. I think his plans were to swap in an prelude motor and tubo it. I am not sure how far along he's got, since he has moved to Houson. He first started with the exterior though and got it all squared away since these cars are notorious for rusting. Best of luck to you.

That's a good point. A stock 91 accord lx auto, like my car weighs like 2900lbs. I figure i can knock off about 5 pounds or so for the cold air vs the stock intake, and i also removed the stock exhaust heat shield. I can also easily remove around 100-150 pounds of crap at any given time (spare, jack, passenger/rear seat, trunk trim, trunk carpet, etc.) If i got more serious about reducing the weight, i could buy a lighter drivers seat (stock front seats weigh 65lbs a piece) and rip all of the door panels out when i'm at the track. This is the same reason i'm looking at getting a carbon fiber hood and trunk, and why i'm paying attention to how much the wheels i buy weigh when i go wheel shopping. i see no point in spending 700+ dollars on wheels that arent any better than steel wheels.

I'm also thinking about ripping out my ac, but i dont know if i can stand it, it already doesnt work, i'm not sure i want to slam that door permanently.

oh and jared i can use a dsm exhaust manifold, all i have to do is make the holes slightly bigger or something. The pattern is the same. And i'm all about the rear donuts. I wonder if i can get skinnier tires for donuts or not? That'd be wicked.

My point is that if you're going to make it fast, don't make it a gutted race car. This is coming from someone who was damn close to doing the same. If you're not driving it to work everyday it's one thing, but I daily'd my Talon a couple years ago for about 7 months straight and it got really old really fast.

Weight reduction is great, but even if you shaved 200lbs off of it, you'd still only weigh what a stock fwd 1g like mine weighs and you'd be about 100 hp down on a stock dsm as well. Realistically you may go from an 18 second 1/4 mile time to a 17.7 second 1/4 mile time with the reduced weight.

Is that really worth having a gutted out race car looking ride that buzzes, rattles, and drones everywhere you go. Fix the basics, fix the body, leave the interior in, and then buy yourself a junkyard 5speed transmission/engine combo and do a complete swap. Unless you're making huge numbers, automatic transmissions on 4 cylinders will kill any chance of your car actually being quick.

sadly i cant run a 5 speed, or i would have bought one. No working legs=no clutch=no shifting. It's actually kinda hard to hit the horn and drive at the same time, because i'd either have to stop steering or take my hand off of the gas. That being said, i am probably going to step up to an h23 auto tranny w/lsd, since some of them came stock with lsd's and they have shorter gears. I was also going to buy a modded torque converter, which should help the launches a bit. I dont care a whole lot about launches though, since i mostly want to autocross. I'll go drag and stuff, but i dont really want to make my car into a drag car.

And of course i'd put the door panels back on to drive it around daily, they come off with three screws. I dont know if i'd wear out those plastic pin things taking them off like that or not, i guess i dont really plan on racing every weekend or anything.

If autocrossing is really your thing i'd look for a used late 80's early 90's civic hatch. When building a car for autocross you've got to make sure and play within the rules. With the scca something as basic as a boost controller on a stock dsm could put you head to head against a car like mine. Changing the wheels beyond a certain diameter will do the same as well.

I'd highly reccomend reviewing the rulebook (can be had in .pdf form on their website) and building a car to compete based around those cars winning at the regional and national level.

I would like to point out that a properly prepared automatic can be quicker in the 1320 than a stick as boost and shift time are not lost between gears. This is why air shifters and timers are used on most pro drag cars.

I know Corey was looking at an auto for a while.