and then tranny fluid proceeded to go EVERYWHERE on my garage floor lol...

well, I have the block/tranny out now. Took the tranny off of the block and saw what the Hayne's manual calls "Excessive finger wear" on the pressure plate fingers. I don't know though, the engine, transmission, and the clutch only had 20,000 miles on them. Maybe my self taught way to shift is not good . I then realized that I do not have the proper alignment tool for the clutch. When it comes time to put things back together, mine is the metric one that I bought at a tool supply in town, has threads on the end and some different sized slip-on guides, but the rod doesn't fit. so I may need to get the actual one when I put it together. The throw-out bearing spins freely, that's good. I will have to post some pics, but I keep forgetting my camera when I go...
It was starting to piss me off getting those, 6, flywheel bolts off. The damned flywheel kept trying to turn, so I probably pulled a "No-no" and used the trusty ol' impact. they are in great condition aside from some heat colorization, looking at them and the ARP ones online, they look the exact same except for the color. They have 11's on them, are those stock or ARP? Man, then the damned stand that I have will not bolt up to the block. So I'll say screw it for this weekend, unless I feel like breaking out Mr. Dremel and rattle can. there are so many things that need attention, and I want to start getting things in order to go back into the enginebay without flaw. Trying to think of scenarios that could happen so I can be ready when it comes time to dropping the engine in. I am saving my money all that I can right now for the "justin case" later but I need to start buying things so they get here in time. Different gaskets, new hoses (for the ones needed) new alternator, water pump, crush washers, fluids, filters, all kinds of fun stuff.

The alignment tool isn't a big deal. It really only helps when it comes to getting the trans mounted. If you want to come down to FW I've got like 3 of them (they give you one everytime you buy a clutch kit it seems) and I'd gladly give you one for nothing. Using the impact on them is actually the preferred method of getting them off.

Post a pic of the engine stand. I have a cheap one from Autozone that Corey's motor is currently sitting on. Had to go and buy a few longer bolts to make it all work, but it's on there and solid as a rock. I'm sure you have the stock bolts, but there's no reason for ARP flywheels bolts at your power level so save the money.

Yeah, I was exhausted yesterday from work on top of getting the engine out, so I will probably go back up and get the longer bolts at the hardware. can't be more than like 2 bucks, well the way that I am I'll not leave until I've spent like $50. It's like a candy store everytime I go in!

What your seeing on the fingers is probably normal wear from where the throwout bearing rides. Unless its physically grooved your shouldn't have any issues. There's nothing wrong with using an impact for dis-assembly. That's what they are made for.

Hmm, that's disturbing. Like I said though I will have to throw up some new pics because the fingers are physically grooved. well, there goes another amount of $. Now that I think of it though, it was starting to slip (slightly), you know how you can tell when something starts to go... I wonder what pressure plate I should go with this time, the one in it is an ACT 2100. Prolly just get the same with a pressure plate only. Dang, I'm going to have to start slapping myself everytime I ride the clutch, that and put pictures in there to remind me what being hard on a car entails

Get a 2600 pressure plate and a stock disc. It'll work fine for what you're looking for.

Currently, the engine is stripped down. All 4 pistons are scrap metal, and they are wiseco's - not J&E like buschur said (not that it would have made a difference, but it's the principle and $200 xtra) The crank is in good shape, the deck is perfect. One of the oil squirters was almost sludged shut! So, I'll also be in the market for a new oil cooler (maybe, it's prolly sludged, need to check). The cylinders are Ball honed, but are not mirror quality so I will be haveing it power honed for a cleaner cylinder (won't be perfect I know). Otherwise, I am taking the head in to be checked and blessed as well. Waiting on clutch from Slowboy and the rotating assy. will be re-balanced for my assurance. Other than that, it's the good ol' waiting game right now .

I have something to say about that head I purchased from J&C enterprises off of ebay:

What's up with that head?

well, I'm glad that I had the machine shop bless it for me. there were metal shavings all over, the deck was not flat, and that is not even what bothers me. What does bother me, is that it was milled down too far, so now I will always need a thick ass head gasket.

Well look at it this way, now you won't lose that compression you would have before, because you were going to run a sweet ass headgasket anyway right?

You would gain compression by having the head milled to much. It would make the combustion chamber smaller thus raising the compression ratio. Hence the thicker gasket to fill that void.

such optimists!

that won't affect valve clearance? so I just ordered some parts from slowboy, and am still coming along on this. Block looks Beautiful, fresh new coat of paint and all the fixin's with brand spankin new Wiseco's (with the cool ass logo that no one will ever see). Now, just need to put on the tensioner, crank pully (still purchasing) some gaskets here and there, bolts that I lost, Got some new ARP's for the turbo : manifold, and turbo : O2 housing, new copper gaskets there, new copper gasket for the exhaust manifold (couldn't bring myself to spend the $100 on the SS studs and 12 pt. nuts for manifold), and crossing my fingers on the tranny. It only had 20,000 miles on it, but it's been down so long...damn, thinking about it, I needed to get crush washers when I put in the order. Do local parts stores carry those? it's just copper washers isn't it?

I would use OEM Turbo bolts over ARPs, they are known to fail even more than stockers. Just FYI.

As for the manifold, you don't need to spend $100 for new studs and nuts.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merc ... SM-Exhaust

18$ + shipping for the entire set from FP.