Ok,I guess this is the first dsm that I am about to give up.
It is that eclipse gsx that I bought off of that guy that used to be here.
here is the problem,car runs great ,shifts great but once I floor it it starts sputtering under the boost,it usually happens around 3300 rpm,if I slowly accelerate it will run fine.
Here are things that I changed,swapped or inspected.
New spark plugs ngk 6
tried new spark plug cables
swapped the ignition coil
swapped the ignition module
new o2 sensor
swapped the fuel filter
swapped the fuel pump with walbro 190lph
swapped the air mass
replaced the turbo
compression good
replaced fuel injectors
replaced the fpr
tried out 3 different ecu's
installed safc
replaced fuel injector module
replaced fuel rail
new gasoline
checked for boost leaks,got them all besides the injector seal,I personally doubt that is it,had bigger leaks than that never had chugging problem before.
I just can't get rid of chugging,sputtering issue and I am losing my mind.
once full boost kicks in,the car goes way too lean,43 counts of knock which explains sputtering but WHY???

Damn Al, sounds like you tried pretty much everything. It's possible it could be the injector seals. Mine were trashed when I put my motor back together and I could barely get it to idle until I fixed them. The only other thing I can think of is to verify your'e truly getting the fuel pressure you need under boost. Perhaps somsone threw a jack under the car and pinched a fuel line or something somewhere.

Have you checked and adjusted the tps?
Auto cars are very sensitive to this.

thanks for the replies Kyle and Jeff.
Both of your suggestions are very helpful and make sense,I will check my fuel lines and TPS.
And I also swapped out knock sensor and that didn't help.I also ordered new seals injector seals.
Jeff,when you say check your TPS,do you mean just make sure it is reading 100% wide open throttle or are there any other tests to do that I don't know about?
Thanks guys
Al

Copy and pasted from the DSMlink forums wiki...

TPS Adjustment Procedure
NOTE: This entire procedure is simply a manual way of doing what the TPS Adjust wizard does for you automatically.

The ECU wants to see 0.63v from the TPS sensor when your foot is off the throttle and greater than, say, 4.6v when you're fully on it. You can datalog TPSvolts to see what the ECU is really getting. The value at idle (foot off the throttle) is probably more important than the value at wide open throttle. A value that's too high at idle can prevent the idle switch from activating or it will prevent the “simulate idle switch” functionality from working properly.

Details

ok,I swapped out the tps ,no luck,performed all kinds of test on it everything ok.
checked fuel lines,they are ok.
Here is what I did,loosen up the throttle cable and set it so when gas pedal is floored it is opening the throttle only 50% and car runs good,boosting fine,holding 10psi.
What I dont understand is why wide open throttle makes it sputter and misfire when is set on 100% WOT.I also noticed first thing when i start it up,when reving the engine it don't rev smooth ,it misses from 750-2500 rpm and it smoothes out over that.This is only when engine is cold,once it is warmed up,it revs up fine.
If the car is in park and you crack the throttle it will hit up to 43 counts of knock but when you accelerate smoothly it wouldn't show any knock whatsoever.
ATTN JEFF:I tried running the 255 walbro pump assembly out your old white car and the pump constantly runs with the ignition on.My question to you is did you maybe rewire that pump to do so for some reason if you could remember?I mean with the ignition on you can hear fuel shooting to the fuel rail ,through the fpr and go back to the tank constantly.

The pumps do run constantly don't they? With the return style fuel system, the regulator maintains pressure and allows excess to flow back into the tank. Do you have an AFPR on that car?

The pump should not run if the engine is not running.

O sorry, I didn't see the part about ignition on lol nevermind me.

It is actually a 190lph pump, and I really don't remember if I rewired that one or not. If I did, it would have a relay behind the driver side rear interior plastic bolted to the quarter panel.

If it goes straight to 43 counts of knock just free revving, that will need fixed. I imagine it has serious knock under WOT and is retarding the timing heavily? Any unusual mechanical noises that may be tripping the knock sensor? Lifters quiet? Exhaust pointed at the block or oil pan or rattling?

43 counts of knock is the default max knock read. It's sounding like there might be a wiring issue in the knock sensor department. It could be the actual sensor itself, but since you've replaced that along with the ecu, I'd begin checking the wiring. May have a cracked wire in the loom somewhere.

Thanks again for all your replies,
So if the pump is revired it is going to run with ignition on???
Jeff,It looks like you wrapped the wires that are coming from the pump with electrical tape but I don't see relay anywhere.What is the chance that you hardwired the wires for constant power at the pump with ignition on.I am sure this is not my problem but I am tring to eliminate things that are unusual for me because i have never heard pump run wit the ignition on dsm before.

I see where you guys going with the knock sensor,It makes sense ,there might be wiring issue or knock sensor could be picking up noise but why my o2's go right on 0.00 once knock will rise?
Why is ecu taking away fuel if knock has accured and timing is retarding,it should be giving it fuel right?I can't think straight anymore,this car is kicking my ass.
From my point of view to me it seems like that there is restiction somewhere in the fuel system
so once you crack the throttle the volume of fuel is not getting to the injectors but once you slowly push the throttle engine runs smooth and there is no knock and o2's,timing,are fine.
When driving the car it will run fine until you floor it which means fuel volume of 43psi of fuel is not there what is needed ,car starts sputtering because lack of fuel under boost.This makes sense to me,my question is does this make sense to you all?

If there is no relay, then I didn't rewire the pump on that car. And I know I didn't wire it to be on when the ignition is off. The car you are working on now does this? Did somebody add a wire from the battery and ground it to get around some other issue?

That doesn't make a whole lot of sense to make the pump run constant, but the previous builder is obviously suspect.

Should be able to just rewire the fuel pump the correct way, and eliminate that silly setup.


No computer codes?

Have you blocked off the FIAV, and ISC and tried that?

I was going to run and piece of hose from the pump to the fuel rail to bypass old fuel line and fuel filter just to make sure there is no restiction in the fuel line or filter.
No I havent tried blocking off fiav or isc because car idles fine.I don't think that will help me in any way.Why did you say that?Is there anything that I don't know.