I'm curious about using any alternate ECUs in my 1G. I was just walking out to my car today thinking of how I had to block off the FIAV and the idle sucks. Anyone know if a 2G ECU would work? I know there would be some changes to be made with different sensors. I'm just wondering of the benefit would be. Having OBD2 would be nice, as would running a 2G MAF. What are your thoughts on this. I would imagine some rewiring would be in order, but right now I just thinking about the benefits right now, not the work involved.

The 1g ECU is really good but yes you can swap to 2g or EVO ECU's. There is wiring needed, obviously. As well as new sensors.

Would it be better to stick with the 1G? Is the 1G more stable for idle and general tuning than the 2G? I want to compare the two and figure what would be the best for what I'm doing.

Stick with the 1g ecu, once the caps have been replaced they usually last forever. It is easier to find an eprom in a 1g. Check that your IAC is working right, if it goes bad and shorts out it can really damage your ecu.

Make sure your throttle is adjusted properly and that the closed throttle switch is working properly.

I'd also stick with the 1G ECU. It is so much easier to work with without the limits of OBDII. It basically doesn't monitor anything so you can do whatever you want lol

I have a spare one that I got and when I swapped it out, it would barely idle at all. It wouldn't idle and when I gave it gas it would stumble really bad. That doesn't mean that the one I have now it good, but it idles better. I loved the way it idled with the block off plate installed, but it would still stumble a little off idle and I figured with the winter it would be better to let the computer have some control. I'm not 100% sure that the idle is a fault of the IAC. If I beat on it, it idles back down about where I would expect it. At the autocross, it idled at 900 rpm, but on the normal drive home it was 1300 to 1500 rpm at lights.

Do all of your idle checks including checking the caps in the ECU. Check your T.B. seals (all of them incl. the ones for the FIAV plate), BISS screw and O-Ring, IAC operation, cable/plate adjustment, functioning idle/closed throttle switch.

BTW: Is it the FIAV bypass or FIAV block off plate you have cuz there is a big difference between those?

That would be a plus. I guess in the long run for a DD I would have assumed that the ODBII would be easier to tune with just a flash and it would be able to control the engine management better than the 1G.

As far as my idle adjustment. I need to recheck it as I haven't since I changed to the other IAC and then back. Would it be better to just disable the closed throttle switch? As far as I understand, the only thing it does is lean out the fuel mixture. I am getting some lean pop upon decel.

It's a block off plate. I made it cuz my FAIV was freaking out really bad. I've been looking for another throttle body to swap out and see if it made a difference, but I ran out of funds before I could get it. When I made the plate, I made the gaskets for it as well and spayed them with copper seal before I installed. I don't think I have a leak there, but I'll have to look at the rest.

The block off plate blocks off your IAC ports to the T.B. also. That could be an issue. You usually only see the FIAV "block off" plates on full out race cars. The "bypass plate" blocks the fiav but keeps the ports to the iac so you can still have a steady idle.

ok, my bad. That is what I made. I started out with a block off plate and it ran great that was minus the off idle stumble. I would have kept it but the stumble drove me nuts. I then modified it to a bypass plate. No FIAV, but still have the IAC.

Oh okay just clarifying. Go thru your idle checks and just make sure everything is operation like it is supposed to.

Back to ECU's, a 2G ECU is flashable however it really isn't practical or cost friendly. With either ECU you are better off getting some type of tuning management even if just an SAFCII. So in the long run, with the cost of the ECU and the time in rewiring the harness and adding sensors, you might as well just keep on with 1G ECU.

That is kinda what I was trying to figure out. I'm still new to the DSM from many standpoints so I figured this was the best place to get answers. I have been looking to get a NEO when the time comes. Maybe go to DSMlink, but I'm not really sure if I'll need to go that far. I probably will. I will probably leave the car stock with just a MBC on the 14b until I can get the parts to put the Evo 16g on. I'm guessing that for that setup I'll likely want the DSMlink.

Oh your car is turbo? Why did I think it wasn't...

5-spd?

WWD or AWD?

hmmm..not sure. ya, it's turbo, 5-spd, and awd. I wouldn't do it any other way.