The Evo ecu swap is becoming more popular. A few people have done it now. It is capable of quite a bit including gear based boost control. However it is complex for someone not familiar with both systems. The Evo ecu would need a flash program and someone capable of reading and modifying the code. If you google search I'm sure you can find some info.

However for now I suggest you stick with the 1g ECU.

If you get it socketed you can get a sweet chip from Keydiver (link below) that does all sorts of cool shit.

www.dsmchips.com

The chip plus an AFC is a good combo and you can find used AFC's on ebay for <$200.

And that is why Corey is a "DSM Guru" lol

I've heard about the Evo Ecu swap, and that is what made me think about a 2G swap. I think I'm just going to have to either start looking around for another 1G Ecu or pull mine and rebuild it.

I'd pull it out one night and check the capacitors on the board. Those are the easiest thing to check. Sometimes it will look like a little furball explosion lol

Kelsey, didn't you have the IAC fry a driver in the ECU. Somebody else did too, Joe?

Yep the IAC can fry the ecu.

Pulling it and looking at the caps takes 5 mins. If you need them swapped it's not to expensive and will be good for another 20 years.

If you have an eprom ecu you can get an ostrich, map sensor and intake temp sensor, and wbo2. Then you can run Jackal and have pretty much have full control of your ecu for less then a chip and safc or dsmlink. You can even run full block off plate on your TB and it runs just fine.

I'll pull mine this weekend and look at it. I know they are just caps, but are they common ones that you can pick up from Radioshack? If so and I find bad ones I'll just change them out. By the way, where is the ECU at anyway? I haven't poked around for it yet.

http://www.zeitronix.com/installation/ECUremoval.htm

Removal ^

http://www.3si.org/wiki/index.php?title ... edirect=no

Cap replacement ^

Cool, I'm going to pull it this weekend and see how it looks. I may just go ahead and replace the caps anyway if I can find them in town. I'll also pull the BISS and look at the o-ring on it and reset the idle. Then I will see what happens. If I can get that done, then maybe I'll have time to get my downpipe on too. That would be nice. Anyone here have a decent welder and time to weld anything? My pipe from the factory downpipe back I fabricated and I will need to weld a new flange on to the existing pipe. I suck at welding and I don't know if I'll be able to get the rest of the stuff done before my uncle closes his shop as he is the one that did it last time.

I could weld it for you for a couple bucks.

Cool, I'll let you know if I even get to it. If I get enough progress made tonight I will be able to just take it to the shop tomorrow and get it welded.

The caps are OK, I picked up a new o-ring for the BISS as it was flattened and hard as a rock. Hopefully that helps. I did manage to get my downpipe in place and the flange welded up.

Everything back together and idle readjusted. Seems to idle better now. We will see how it really does tomorrow. I took it around the block and it was idling at 900-1000. When I pulled in the drive, it was 1100, but that could have just been from going up my driveway.

The cold weather doesn't help either.